Precast GFRC Fireplace Surround

Location: Granger, Indiana

Installer:  Bontrager Concrete Specialties

Square Footage: 42.25 Square Feet

Products Used: XS Precast Mix, LD-1800, SCR, XS-327 WB Polyurethane

Precast concrete has grown leaps and bounds in the past few decades since the time when we thought that everything that in order for something to be strong, it also  needed to be heavy.  Since then we’ve learned just how strong, light, and thin that we can make precast concrete without sacrificing anything we had in the past.  The biggest key to this transformation has been GFRC or Glass Fiber Reinforced Concrete.

Since GFRC first started taking hold in the industry in the 1970′s, the formulas for achieving the most efficient GFRC casting material have changed drastically.  In the last few years, SureCrete has pioneered one of the industry’s first “All-In-One” bag mix formula for GFRC.  Bontrager Concrete Specialties of Indiana used SureCrete’s hybrid GFRC mix just recently to create some stunning precast pieces to accent a home in Granger, Indiana.  They purchase their supplies locally from DC Supply out of Nappanee, Indiana.

The fireplace surround is 54″ x 78″ and the back splash behind the stove is 48″ x 39″.  Both were cast as one solid piece.  First they used a pour-able hybrid GFRC mixture from SureCrete called XS Precast Mix for the face of the pieces.  The fireplace surround received a face coat of 3/8″ prior to an application of another lighter weight hybrid GFRC product, bringing the total thickness of the piece to 1″.  The total weight of the piece, however, was easily manageable enough to be moved around without equipment,  thus eliminating the need to cast pieces on site, and allowing for much more control over their working environment.

Precast GFRC Kitchen Back Splash

The back splash behind the stove in the kitchen was cast entirely out of SureCrete’s XS Precast Mix at a total thickness of 1/2″.  Two color packs were used in the XS Precast Mix  in both pieces to create the variegated two-tone color you see.  Since the hybrid GFRC mix SureCrete makes is a high quality white-portland cement based product, it is very easy to manipulate the color of the mix integrally as well as being able to accept ecologically friendly stains once they have been taken out of the mold.

Another piece of information worth mentioning is that pieces cast using the hybrid GFRC mix called XS Precast Mix can be pulled from their molds within 4-6 hours depending on the environment they are cast in.  They also do not create the same exothermic reaction that the vast majority of GFRC Mix Designs currently available on the market do, thus allowing you to simply cast the piece and walk away instead of having to keep eyes and ice on it at any given time to prevent thermal cracking.

Once these pieces were de-molded, the staff at Bontrager Concrete Specialties cleaned the pieces and polished them up to a 400 grit, followed by two coats of SureCrete’s XS-327 Hybrid Water Based Polyurethane Sealer.  They used a seemingly simple fabrication process to create fantastic original pieces with accuracy and efficiency.

Give the staff at DC Supply a call at 574-773-7300 if you’re in the Nappanee, Indiana area and they’ll consult you on how you can save time and money using these amazing products on your next fabrication job.

Aggregates In Precast Concrete

One frequently asked question is, “Can you make my concrete countertop look like granite?” Our response in general was to be very wary of this customer.

But what if this is our ultimate customer?  One with enormous artistic vision…  One that truly thinks outside the form!  With this customer you have the opportunity to create that one of a kind concrete countertop that resembles the look of granite or marble through the addition of aggregates, yet has the “concrete funk” effect. This all sounds great! A truly challenging project, what could possibly go wrong?

First off the aggregates could go wrong.  Here are some princples to consider when choosing from the thousands of available aggregates:

• PSI
• Metallic objects
• Flaky or naturally layered

PSI – This is one of the most important considerations of a potential aggregate for your concrete countertop. Using a low psi aggregate, such as limestone, can be a problem. Why?  Because it’s not compatible with today’s advanced concrete mixes that can achieve strengths of 6,000-11,000 psi. When grinding and polishing a high psi concrete countertop surface combined with an aggregate with a low psi, you end up with a depression in the area that contained the aggregate piece. What happened? The dust created through the grinding process has wallowed out the lower psi material and left you with a low spot that your slurry coat will cover, thereby covering any aggregate you had intended to expose.

Conversely, a high psi aggregate, such as glass, can leave a “mound” when combined with a low psi concrete countertop mix.  The surrounding area around the glass has deteriorated faster due to the dust particulate wallowing away the concrete countertop.  Whenever possible try to match high psi aggregate with high psi concrete countertop mix. To be particularly safe wait several days before grinding to ensure the concrete countertop mix cures sufficiently to be able to grind safely.

Metallic Objects – Use caution when choosing metal aggergates. Any metal with iron will rust at some point within your concrete countertop.  Usually this happens within the first few days and the result will be rust stains around your intended aggregate, and non-payment.  What’s the cure?  Throw it away, start over, lose days of form work and learn a hard lesson.

Flaky or Naturally Layered Aggregates – Mica Aggregates are the main culprit here.  Although tempting in beauty and color, use caution in your selection of these aggregates. Your vision may include these gems of the earth, but usually they fall apart when grinding. If they make it through grinding, the sealing process will amplify imperfections, especially using water based sealers.

So, did we learn anything? Remember to start simple and experiment. Following some of these princples will hopefully help. That’s the 411 on aggregates for concrete countertops.

If you’re looking for a simple bag mix to go along with your choice of aggregates, check out SureCrete Design’s Precast Concrete Countertop Mixes.  They pioneer some of the leading mix designs for hybrid GFRC materials to make your precast concrete jobs be much more efficient in terms of materials cost and labor.

GFRC Precast Concrete Countertop w/ Eco Stain

When working with Concrete Countertops or Precast Concrete, most pieces can be stained straight out of the mold. Depending on the design of your Concrete Countertop, you may include different finishing techniques such as sanding or the addition of a slurry coat. Lets take a look at a break through in concrete stains called Eco-Stain, a water based zero-voc stain that doesn’t require any neutralization, and introduce you to some tips that will save you both time and money!

If you are using a typical stain you normally encounter a reactive, polymer, water based or dye that can deliver a variety of different color effects. Eco-Stain is a product unlike the above listed. The 29 UV-stable colors work on any surface that has porosity. There is NO reaction to the surface. It is a water based pigment that penetrates a porous surface through the absorption of moisture. As the surface absorbs the moisture out of the product it penetrates and leaves the pigments in the pours of the substrate. With this feature you have no clean up, no neutralization just a small drying window and the ability to seal. Here are some tips and tricks for use of SureCrete’s water based Eco-Stain on Concrete Countertops

Precast Concrete Countertops (No slurry, veining or difference in porosity)

• Profile your surface with  a dilution of water and SureCrete’s SCR (Super Concrete Renovator) before any application of Eco-Stain. In most cases a dilution of 3 parts water and 1 part SCR is ideal.

Precast Concrete Countertops (with slurry, veining or difference in porosity)

GFRC Precast Concrete Countertop with Water Based Stain

• Using a rough sand or grit, remove any excess concrete or burrs that are undesired.
• Wash piece with diluted SCR, rinse and allow to air dry, usually 30 minutes is fine.
• Fill holes or veins with Xtreme Series Slurry mix and allow to dry.
• Lightly sand excess slurry with a 400 grit diamond pad or equivalent sand paper.
• Apply LD 1800(Lithium Densifier) to the surface of your piece; with clean water rinse LD 1800 off the surface before it dries on the concrete( approx. 20 minutes)

NOTE: LD 1800 will help give the areas that are slurried and the existing countertop the same density therefore allowing the stain to absorb more evenly.

Now you are ready to apply SureCrete’s Water-Based Eco-Stain. Methods of application include; HVLP, Cup Sprayer, sponge, rag, or flooding the surface.

NOTE: If desired color is not achieved, the stain can be removed using a dilution of SCR and water 3/1.  Reapplication of slurry and densifying may be necessary before staining again.

Once the desired look is achieved, seal using a SureCrete recommended penetrating sealer.

We hope that you enjoy this stain as much as we have!

GFRC Countertop with Fiberoptics

What is GFRC?

Glass Fiber Reinforced  Concrete has become the go to material for precasters the world over. The combination of cement, sand, and fiber at specific ratios, deliver unparalleled flexural and tensile strength, allowing for the production of a  larger, stronger, and lighter overall design! For most specifiers and architects, the use of high early strength concrete, can open doors to create elaborate structural high strength concrete designs. The use of Xtreme Series GFRC as your “high early strength concrete mix“, gives you the opportunity to reduce weight and material costs without losing any other attributes.

Xtreme GFRC is the “Next Generation” in cementitious composites.  The patented mix design provides solutions to typical obstacles and inconsistencies found in traditional GFRC formulas.

Looking at Xtreme Series GFRC Formula (high early strength concrete mix)

The Xtreme Series technology  is a high early strength pre-blended concrete mix that is made up of: sand, cement, and fiber and completely free of polymer and acrylic . Three types of fibers: PVA, Glass AR, and Nano are combined together for the first time in GFRC. These elements deliver the strongest commercial grade, flexural and tensile strengths available today.  Having NO polymers and NO acrylics in our mix design finally solves the issue of temperature sensitivity during delivery of the raw materials and during application. Experience the ability to mix and spray Xtreme Series GFRC in temperature ranges of 40-90° F.

GFRC Architectural Precast Building Awning

Xtreme Series GFRC takes human error out of the mixing equation. The two component formula allows for faster mixing, more accurate formula consistency including control of color across an entire project. Faster start up time with a cleaner mix area are also achieved. Use Xtreme Series GFRC to open the door to smarter productivity and better use of your facility.

The combination of PVA and Glass AR fiber with the perfect ratio of cement and sand gives Xtreme Series GFRC the ability to span longer distances in between support. That translates to a decrease in total weight and early high strength precast concrete. Create a lighter and stronger piece without sacrificing flexural or tensile strength. This attribute allows the fabricator to minimize how many seams the piece is required to have increasing the overall aesthetic appeal.  Installation is easier and lighter, requiring less time, labor, and man power.  The end result is an increase in profit margins on every project!

Using GFRC for Architectural Trim & Cladding

Utilizing balanced amounts of PVA, Glass AR and nano fibers, Xtreme Series GFRC can open up NEW and creative design opportunities for Architects and Designers. You can create pieces that are larger, stronger and lighter than ever before. The use of the Xtreme Series technology for your high early strength GFRC mix ,allows the fabricator the ability to reduce and eliminate unnecessary weight and waste on all of their projects. These combined attributes deliver a environmentally friendly or “GREEN” process to your fabrication!

If this sounds to good to be true ,well we thought that also till we tried the product. We encourage you to look at this website and make yourself a believer www.SureCreteDesign.com

by Jeff Kudrick – Originally featured in Concrete Decor Magazine April 2012 Issue

Illustrations by Rob Bynum

Before we get into casting a hood let’s review a couple of very important preliminary steps we need to take beforehand.

In order to build our molds we have to know what type of blower unit we need to accommodate, which gives us a parameter to follow for size.

Second, we need to know the space the entire Hood has to fit in. This includes the cabinets, stove, widths, heights and so on. This can be considered the external structure of the hood.

The next logical component will be the internal supporting wall structure that is not actually part of the hood. We need to have the contractor install blocking to allow for weights and provide the installer/builder with the specified components before the wall is closed, tile is installed, or other structures are installed. The diagram at left (above the title of the article) shows how to specify for blocking in the wall for the design we are using.

Another optional support mechanism is a wall bracket used for supporting floating vanities. This can provide the structure necessary to carry not only the Header but also the Breast. You will just specify the locations differently, and the cables are unnecessary at this point.

The blocking diagram should show an entire area that is the minimum required coverage, and the blocking should be specified as a “2x thick” material that is screwed into the supporting studs. The weight of the entire structure needs to be supported by the blocking materials. The blocking for the header will accept 3/8-inch lag bolts, the bracket will need drywall screws for support and stabilization, and the front of the header will be supported by cables that tie back into the upper blocking within the Breast.

These drawings need to be submitted with the designs and the expectation of who is responsible for the blocking should be outlined as well.

A few details about the casting

The finish of the hood needs to coincide with the complexity of this application. The expectation of the final outcome, and how you will accommodate errors in the finish, holes, sags, and other blemishes especially considering the mold is assembled as you spray, make it difficult to make a perfect crème finish. It is recommended that you use a textured finish, such as the J&M Lifestyles signature limestone finish used in this article. Secondary and tertiary process levels such as staining, glazing, acid staining, distressing and microtopping techniques after casting gives the fabricator a tremendous level of security and salvage ability in the case of errors or the occasional blemish.

Many of the components of this hood are rather simple and the level of understanding and difficulty is quite low, so we will go over each piece by level of complexity starting with the easiest first. We will be explaining the application of the cast using a bagged GFRC product from SureCrete Design Products to avoid the need to explain mix designs. We will be utilizing a material that is very well suited for adaptation and has superior attributes when exposed to fire and heat. Traditional acrylic-modified GFRC cements are not as stable with high heat as a nonacrylic modified cement, and they are not suitable for the supportive structures and compressive strengths needed here.

1.  Casting Brackets:

The brackets are simple molds, two halves in fact, that comprise a fully finished 4-inch thick component. This mold can be cast in one piece if the two halves are put together and the back of the mold is exposed so you can pour in the Surecrete Xtreme casting mix. This method will add weight to the overall finished product but be quicker to cast.

The other consideration is the finish. This overall hood design will require the strength of a high-fiber mix and the complex shapes can’t be cast using “B” molds. So, in order to create pieces consistent with the finishes of the other components, for example the Header and Breast, we need to spray the face mix into the molds first, put the two halves together, brush the seams, then pour in the casting mix.

There is an architectural detail on the centerline of the brackets so as to limit the obtrusiveness of the seam. This can be molded in, hand cut, or ground in after the cast.

If cast separately the two halves will be put together using a urethane adhesive such as PL Premium before finishing. Be sure not to allow the adhesive to expand out onto the face disturbing the finish on the surface of brackets. Urethane adhesives are helpful when bonding cementitious products in that they expand and adhere well to surfaces that have moisture present.

2.  Moldings

The moldings are separate transitional components of the hood design. They add depth, support the design context (in this case, a traditional design that has a more embellished visual aesthetic), make each individual part more manageable and smaller, and allow adjustment in the overall height.

The molds used here are urethane mantle molds available through Infinicrete, the company I do product development for. These cast components can be made with fabricator-made urethane molds or shaped PVC molds. You can even substitute wood as a single-use material. This design allows for diversity in mold application.

The sizes of all components are adjustable and the only component that justifies the size of the actual hood is the Header Face panel. This is the only mold face that is not adjustable. The value of making a hood this way is that subsequent mold costs are very small, even with varying sizes.

The main mold is an 8-foot length of molding that is held upright on the base mold face (typically melamine or architectural concrete-faced plywood) with a steel or aluminum angle. The two side molds are also held in place with angles, and the end of each side mold is coped to fit snug against the face mold without the need for silicone.

These three pieces will accommodate any size molding in a monolithic U-shaped part up to 8 feet wide and 40 inches deep. Diagrams on this page show how the inside of the molding has stops to finish to and how foam is used to support the GFRC material to reduce the overall weight.

The molding holds little weight, especially the one on top of the hood. The important areas to consider are the ends that meet the wall on the transitional molding between the Header and Breast, since this is where the Breast will be shimmed so the weight is transferred only to the bolted area of the Header and not the forward cabled section.

3.  The Breast

After you have built the mold for the Breast, the casting is simple. The Breast will be fastened and supported in at least two places. The top return flange will carry the weight and be screwed into external blocking that will be lagged into the studs in the wall. Alkali-resistant fiberglass scrim is recommended to tie in the top area.
The thickness of the Breast overall should be all GFRC. It should be 1/2-inch thick and up to 3/4-inch thick near the top of the breast. All termination points to the wall should have flanges for dimensional stability and support. These flanges can also provide more surface area on which you can use acrylic mastic to adhere the breast to the substrate, usually sheetrock. The base of the Breast where it meets the intermediate molding is where the shimming will carry the weight of the breast at the wall. Scrim on the two sides of the breast will allow for greater attachment strength to the wall. These areas will be cast thicker, 3/4-inch to 1 inch thick, and No. 8 drywall screws will attach the top of the Breast to external blocking.
The face mix will provide a consistent finish. You will use gauges to maintain consistent and correct thicknesses throughout. The diagram below shows how to make a gauge. It is also acceptable to use scrim throughout the breast component.

4. The Header

The Header is a complex component. The spaces required to support and house the blower and filtration unit — combined with structural needs — create small and involved areas that are challenging to accommodate in a monolithic part. This will require a mold that is easily disassembled to spray a face coat that will allow for a monolithic finish in the final part.

Once sprayed, the different mold faces need to be fabricated in such a way that the assembly is rapid and simple so the face mix can be brushed at the seams.

Another advantage of using the SureCrete Xtreme series of products is that there are no acrylic or hardeners in the mix. It is nearly impossible to “lose” the mix, a problem caused by the heat and time constraints of acrylic-modified cements that can result in crazing in the face mix and separation between the layers.

The individual panels, when removed, need registers to align the faces so you do not damage the sprayed face mix during assembly.

You also must consider the areas that will be sprayed with face mix and, if not masked, would keep the mold from closing tightly.

In the diagrams on this page, we show stages of the process and pictures of a mold with dowel registers.

The finishing of the header is crucial. The distribution of reinforcement and scrutiny of the application of GFRC, assuring the greatest level of workmanship, is what makes this design functional.

HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE GAUGE

Start with a 3/4-inch square block, 3 to 6 inches long.

1. Predrill hole
2. Drive in nail
3. Cut off head of nail
4. Sharpen and verify length

In the next issue of Concrete Decor, Jeff Kudrick will describe the installation procedures for your new concrete hood. In the previous issue, he discussed designing the hood.

Jeff Kudrick, product manager for Infinicrete, Inc., based in Randolph, N.J., is an award-winning creator of concrete kitchen and bath fixtures, fireplace surrounds, furniture and architectural details. For more about his systems, processes, custom-designed product molds or engineered concrete mixes, contact info@infinicrete.com.

by Jeff Kudrick – Originally featured in Concrete Decor Magazine February 2012 Issue

Decorative concrete precasters have the ability to make a greater variety of products from their one primary material than their stone or solid-surface fabricator counterparts do. The malleability and strength of cementitious composites benefit the cottage manufacturer, allowing them to retain the ability to form infinite custom or semicustom products.

Let’s consider one example here. Rather than the utilitarian mainstay of most interior precast manufacturers, the countertop, we will instead discuss how to design, engineer, fabricate and install a concrete stove hood.

1  IDENTIFYING THE BASIC COMPONENTS

The drawing at right (Figure 1) shows the basic components the hood will be designed with.

The moldings (1) are simply transitional components. They can be of varying height and dimensions. They allow for easy fabrication and install.

These moldings can be made using rubber molds that are three pieces — one 8-foot-long run that is square at both ends and two 44-inch long returns that are coped to allow for seamless transitions of the cast material and limitless movement to accomodate any dimension. These are available through Surecrete Design Products or Infinicrete (the company I do product development for), or they can be made in-house with either rubber or PVC.

The largest component is the breast (2). It covers the top of the interior ventilation components and the ductwork. The duct in many areas of the country needs to be rigid, so scheduling the ducts to be installed by another contractor at the same time the hood is being installed is helpful. The ventilation unit would be set by the cabinet-maker, contractor or ventilation technician after the header was installed, and the duct, if it is rigid, would get installed before the breast.

The breast component is best cast and installed as one piece to give the part full integrity. If the look of separate blocks for the breast is desired, maintain a single structural component and grind the joint lines into the breast.

The next and most intricate component is the header (3). This header is the most important component structurally and contains the ventilation components. It is imperative that all considerations and quality fabrication standards are met when casting it. If columns support the header, the weight of the hood rests on the counters and not the header, in which case the header is more stable and does not require cables for support.

The lowermost component in a full wall mount hood design are the brackets (4), which are strictly decorative. Unlike columns, which carry the load of the overall hood to the countertops, the brackets are best suited for a visual and decorative component. These brackets are set with an adhesive and held in place with masonry screws from the inside of the header, plus drywall screws from below the bracket.

2  DESIGNING THE VENTILATION SHAFT AND CHOOSING A UNIT

We have now identified the modular components in a precast hood design and their relative positions. We can start the design process.

The first step in designing a hood is the ventilation unit. The outline can be specified by you, or you can follow the direction of a designer or architect. However, when making products to fit other materials or components, you should understand the basic requirements of said components so that you can serve your clients better and be a knowledgeable resource who can solve problems.

The ventilation unit will be installed, typically, by a suitable contractor who is licensed and insured for this type of work. The flat panel that supports the vent unit is typically provided by and installed with the vent unit by the contractor, although it can also be made out of concrete. It is your job to make the pieces and install them, not to be a jack of all trades. However, this does not nullify your need to understand and educate yourself about the ventilation unit’s installation so you can build products that are user-friendly for the people that specify and install them. Making their jobs easier gets you more work.

When selecting a ventilation unit there are a few basic concerns. The most apparent is the cubic feet per minute (CFM) of air the unit will suck when pulling smoke and grease from the stovetop. The recommended volume is 100 CFM per 10,000 British thermal units (BTU). So a 20,000-BTU burner needs a 200-CFM ventilation unit.

The room size is also a consideration. Think about a room that is 8 feet wide by 10 feet long by 8 feet high, which equals 640 cubic feet of air. The fan will have to move all that air at least 15 times in an hour, so multiply the amount of air (640 cubic feet) by 15 to get a total of 9,600 cubic feet of air moved per hour. CFM is measured in minutes, so divide 9,600 by 60. Your starting point for the range hood’s power is 160 CFM.

Finally measure the stale air in the duct that the range hood will have to overcome. Use values from the Duct Length Adjustment Table (at right, on the facing page) to adjust your measurements for true duct length and figure the CFM needed for your duct.

In our example, we have a simple duct run that is 4 feet of 6-inch straight pipe, a 90-degree elbow, a run of 3 feet of straight pipe and a cap. Adjusted, this becomes: 7 feet of straight pipe, plus 20 feet for the elbow, plus 40 feet for the cap, totaling 67 feet, which translates into 67 CFM.

Add that result to our total CFM (360 CFM plus 67 CFM) to get a calculated CFM rating for your range hood of 427 CFM. In order to be compliant, you would need to install a fan in the range hood that has a rating of at least 430 CFM or greater. (Note: The duct length can be affected by the location of the fan.)

The hood design allows for a large enough space for most sufficient units. However, oversizing allows for a quieter installation and more productive evacuation of the smoke. An in-line or remote fan unit can be set up separately from the ventilation housing. This housing would contain the stainless hood shroud that would have the controls and the filters. The fan can then be in a separate location, allowing for a unit that moves more CFM and operates more quietly.

Many units do not move the specified amount of air volume, since there are no standards for test
The capture area of the vent unit is the space that is directly below the vent. The brow of the header is below the space where the vent is set, so the capture space above it inside the filter area allows smoke to be contained until it is vented. The ventilation unit will sit on a piece of trim, either a slab of GFRC with the desired cut-out or a Formica-laminated plywood board. The board typically is finished with a metallic laminate.ing the actual volume of air moved in the final installation.

Now that you have selected your ventilation unit and have a specified size that you have to allow for, you can design your hood. You should also figure out how the vent will run and sketch it in a drawing (Figure 2).

3  SKETCH YOUR HOOD AND ITS DIMENSIONS

By starting with the unit at the desired height and the vent exit through the ceiling or wall, you can sketch your hood around the components. Be sure to locate the cabinets in the drawing as well.

Once the hood is sketched and rough dimensions are figured, you are ready to make your shop drawings for fabrication.

4  BREAK THE HOOD DOWN FOR CASTING ITS PARTS

Now, sketch a 3-D map of the different parts you will cast and assemble for your hood.
The main component, the header, should be fabricated in one piece and allow for bolting into blocking as well as reinforcement embeds for cabling. Enough clearance should be allowed for the lay-up of material.
Your molds may be “multifaceted.” This means the mold comes apart for spraying the face mix and is reassembled so that the entire part is monolithic and strong enough to support itself and the
Figures 3 and 4 shows how your pieces fit together.other components.

The Return Panels (A) connect to the Header Face (B). These mold panels are independent so that if the Return Panels have insets or raised reliefs you can demold without damage.

The Brow Knockout (C) sets the arc or relative shape of the bottom of the Header. This attaches to the Header Face and is removable.

The Header Return Panel (D) sets the height of the ventilation unit.
The back corners of the Figure 3 drawing will be identical to the back corner of the cast header pictured in Figure 4. The Side Interior Returns (F) and the Back Interior Return Panel (E) are collapsible and finish the interior of the ventilation unit’s captive area. The back of the header between the Return Panels (A) and the Side Interior Returns (F) will have a foam support insert that will allow the entire back of the header to be a monolithic, fully finished back panel.

Again, Figure 4 shows the back corner of the cast header. (G) is the small panel that is created by inserting the foam to cast the monolithic back panel. The whole back is cast with scrim in two layers connecting Return Panels (A) and (E) the Back Return Panel. The 4-inch return on top of the Header Face (B) is reinforced with scrim. and rebar is embedded in the first 1 1/2 inches of the Header Face return. The rebar can be a lighter, thinner and better-suited bar of basalt rebar (sold by Surecrete Design Products).

The top of the mold face of Header Return Panel (D) (the piece in Figure 3 that sets the height of the ventilation unit) allows the cement to be finished to the edge of it as well as parts (E) and (F).

5  THE BREAST MOLD

These two diagrams show the breast mold (right) and an exploded view of the mold (below). The Breast Face Mold (C) can be formed with wiggle board or ribbed plywood and faced with Formica. Using this technique you can make a form that is reusable and modular for the breast. The mold allows for breasts of different widths to be fabricated, and the lower 4-inch extension allows for height adjustments.

At right, the Breast Mold is accompanied by two Breast Return Molds (A). There’s a finished Breast (B) in the drawing too.

The breast mold in the Face Exploded View above starts with the Breast Mold Base Board (M). This is the base upon which you will make your reusable breast mold. The Breast Mold Rib Patterns (K) add reinforcement for the Mold Base Board in the breast’s height dimension and create the shape of the breast. Save the original pattern so that it may be used to make ribs for the breast return molds, which you may or may not choose to make the same.

The Breast Mold Bottom Rail (J) and the Breast Mold Top Rail (I) are used to reinforce the Base Board along its length, hold the Rib Patterns square, and create a platform in which to screw the Breast Base Plate (D) and the Breast Top Plate (H). Both of these components have two features, one to hold the Breast Return Molds (A) in place and secure, and may be used as the mold surface to cast upon.

The Breast Base Filler Plate (F) is made of foam or other filler. It is strictly used to adjust the height of the overall piece and may or may noy be necessary in your design. The Breast Mold Transition Face (G) extends the base of the breast so height accommodations can be made. It also creates a perpendicular transition to the lower molding on which it will rest. (Remember figure 1.)

6  THE CROWN MOLDING

The transitional component is the crown molding. It is a separate part that allows you to offer another decorative component without making molds more complex. It also gives you the ability to offer varying details while keeping the whole system consistent. The molds can be made from PVC or rubber or bought from Infincrete.

The molds are coped into each other and the longest center mold stays stationary. This allows for any width and depth needed. This part is hand-finished on the inside face and cored with foam so it is lightweight. Aluminum angles make the positioning of the molds to the baseboard square and easily set.

7  THE DECORATIVE BRACKETS

Now that the main component molds are done, it’s time to tackle the decorative brackets. They can be fabricated in a number of ways, but the quickest is foam, a pattern, router and facing tape. This technique can be used to fabricate a number of shapes and useful items.

Say we want a bracket that is 4 inches wide — then, we are going to cast two 2-inch-wide halves. You start by drawing the shape of the bracket on paper or directly on a piece of 1/4-inch material, typically luan plywood since it is readily available in most shops. If you draw on paper, use contact adhesive to affix it to the pattern plywood. Either way, keep in mind to size the pattern to accommodate the thickness of the router bit because we want the outside of the shape we are drawing.

After you have cut a pattern and sanded it smooth you need to fasten it to the foam you will be routing. Two screws will hold it sufficiently. Drill a hole to send the router bit into the foam block. The part can be routed from two halves and assembled with the facing tape. Be sure to carefully rout around the plywood pattern so the foam is clean and smooth. The two opposing halves should be married together to be sure the two cast halves will fit seamlessly when finished. Use fine sandpaper to even out the foam molds if necessary. If you want square edges, they need to be carefully cut with a snap razor or its equivalent, because the router will leave its radius in the edge.

Project: Custom Concrete Countertop

Installation by: Marker Technologies

Material Supplier: Sea Coast Supply – Jacksonville, Florida

Total Sq Ft: 115  sq ft countertop

Products Used: Xtreme Series GFRC Face Mix, Xtreme Series Backer Mix, Precast Concrete Countertop Slurry,  Eco-Stain, SCR, LD 1800 (lithium densifier), ARS 400 Matte – concrete countertop sealer

The designer of a Jacksonville, Florida restaurant and bar, approached the team at Marker Technologies with a unique, one-of-a-kind, countertop fabrication. Jason, the owner of MT, has been in the solid surface industry for many years and has handled jobs with materials such as: quartz, granite, marble, 3Form, VCT and VET. Even with this extensive background, he realized that the these materials were not the right choice for the specific look and color scheme presented by the design firm. Concrete became the clear choice for this countertop fabrication. The team at MT had not created a concrete countertop before. Through the power of the internet, they searched for the latest technology in concrete and glass fiber reinforced concrete mix designs and formulas. In the end they choose the Xtreme Series GFRC system from SureCrete Design.

Concrete is becoming a very popular choice for countertop fabricators in the USA. Concrete as a countertop medium, provides a blank white or gray canvas to create any color, shape or texture you can imagine. The Xtreme Series technology from SureCrete, the latest in concrete countertop mixes, takes concrete to a new manufacturer level. Xtreme Series GFRC is a preblended glass fiber, PVA fiber and Nano-Fiber cement based spray-able face coat. This material has been around for over 20+ years, it was only recently that the staff at SureCrete simplified the multiple component chemistry and blending process into a (1) preblended bag and (1) gallon of modifier. This material delivers a compressive strength of 10,500 PSI and can be demolded in as little as 6-8 hours.

The hybrid GFRC formula is a high early strength mix delivering unparalleled  flexural and tensile strengths, making concrete countertop fabrication lighter than ever before. This particular feature was very important to the team at MT. The job specifics for this concrete countertop was to fabricate a 115 square foot countertop with a stained finish. The edge profiles varied from 3″ exposed to the customer side, 2″ profile to the bartender side along with a 4″ wide 1/2″ deep drip tray. Although the profile edges were large, the average thickness on the concrete countertop was around 3/4 inches.

Inside the 5,000 sq ft facility of Marker Technologies in Jacksonville, Florida began the process for creation of the mold for this project. With a tight deadline one mold was created and 9 concrete countertop pieces were casted. Once the pieces were demolded, they were cut with a water jet to ensure the most accurate and tight fitting 45 and 90 degree angles.

The concrete countertop pieces were then stained with Eco-Stain, an Eco-friendly “GREEN” penetrating concrete stain. The finish desired for the countertop was matte. For this MT choose ARS 400, a thin film commercial grade concrete countertop sealer.

Marker Technologies had a fantastic first experience with concrete as a countertop medium. With NO formal training in concrete, he was blown away at the quality of technical support and ease of product. MT now has dedicated space in their Jacksonville, Florida facility for all future concrete countertop, wall panel, custom sinks and much more!

Many fabricators in the Epoxy Countertop Manufacturing Business are looking for an alternative to using epoxy as a medium. The reason for this is due to the request for exterior applications. When using Epoxy as the bases for terrazzo Epoxy countertop fabrication you encounter unwanted attributes like; yellowing, fading and curling due to UV. The pitfalls just mentioned are typical problems inherent to the Epoxy countertops.

After hearing the negative, why would someone use Epoxy as a medium? For interior application Epoxy Countertops are able to take advantage of recycled aggregates such as glass or granite. This makes for a beautiful and individualized end result. Until now, Epoxy was the only medium in which you could create that look on a manufacturing level.

Through years of research and testing, SureCrete Design has created a solution for Epoxy Countertop Fabricators. Using the Xtreme Terrazzo Countertop Mix provides a medium in which they can continue to use their recycled aggregates while enjoying adding benefits as; the same look at a lower material cost, can be used outdoors for outdoor kitchens and concrete countertops, larger array of design options, and the ability to work or tool your slab 4 times faster than epoxy!  In addition to those benefits, Xtreme Terrazzo can be used with your current precast forms, polishing equipment and cutting techniques.

What is Xtreme Terrazzo? It is a pre-blended bag mix that utilizes the latest in cementitious and fiber technology. Xtreme Terrazzo delivers over 10,000 PSI compressive strength and a flexural strength of 1,457 PSI.  It also aids the fabricator in achieving a “Green” concrete countertop option. Each kit of Xtreme Terrazzo comes as a 60 lb bag and 2 gallons of modifier. The concrete countertop fabricator can than add up to 80lb’s of local aggregate, recycled glass or recycled natural stone such as granite. This mix design does not have any polymers in it so it has zero VOC’s.

We recommend that you take a close look at this technology. To learn more about it go to www.SureCreteDesign.com or look for upcoming articles and project reviews on www.TheConcreteWhisperer.com .

Project Profile:

• Parking Garage – 3rd Level
• 98,000 sq ft
• Level the floor
• Grind the high spots
• Newly Broomed Concrete Finish
• 7 Days to complete job
• 8 – Individuals worked on the site

After 3 months of research the best process and products to use on this project, Baker Concrete choose SureCrete’s SureBroom as their concrete restoration solution. Some of the reasons behind their choice were: coverage rates, single component (just add water mix design), cure rate and track record on other job sites.

They began with a crew of 8 members and average 6-8 working per day. As the looked over the site the started by applying a scratch coat of SureBroom, via a stand up metal squeegee, to help in leveling out the floor. Once dry they began grinding off all high spots. The next step required them to clean the 3rd level floor with a product called SCR (Super Concrete Renovator). ThisEco-Friendly concrete cleaner helped clean off any dirt, grease or other materials that would inhibit the proper bonding of the new surface coat, in addition the SCR aiding in profiling the concrete for extra adhesion.

Now that the surface was level and clean they began the resurfacing stage. Here they used Graco RTX machines to spray out the SureBroom material, a product designed to give a new broomed surface,  at a rate of 35,000 sq ft of coverage per day. Once the base coat was down, they changed the spray tip on the machine to create a cementitious non-slip accent coat to the floor. This whole process did not take a trowel or the need to kneel down, total job time was 3 1/4 days to finish.

The last stage was to seal the floor, once again Baker Concrete went with SureCrete and used their Pigmented Sealer to protect the newly broomed concrete surface. The applied 2 coats across the 98,000 sq ft via an airless sprayer, total time elapsed on this stage was 3 1/2 days.

The end result was a job well done and a happy ownership of this Parking Garage.

For more information on this job profile of to learn more about the products used please contact SureCrete Design at whatsnew@surecretedesign.com

Project: Beazer Home – Community Pool Deck  Renovation

Installation by: ACM

Material Supplier: SureCrete Design

Total Sq Ft: 14,000 sq ft

Products Used: Flash Patch, SureTex, , Eco-Stain, Pigmented SureSeal 20%

A Beazer Home’s community clubhouse had issues with their pool deck, during the initial installation of the almost 14,000 sq ft pool deck it encountered rain and a poor finishing technique. Although the builder was disappointed in the outcome, they were not prepared to do a major overhaul immediately.Why? They wanted the concrete pool deck to naturally go through its curing process and have time to make any movement and cracks. This way they could ensure a new aesthetic and functional  look that would stand the test of the traffic it would bare from it’s community. Let’s see the process that the team atACM used to make this a successful decorative concrete makeover.

The first phase was to patch all dips and uneven spots that were causing water run off issues. To do this they used a concrete patch and blend product called Flash Patch. After all areas were level the cleaned and profiled the concrete pool deck to get it ready to receive its new decorative concrete surface. With slip and fall a major issue on a pool deck surface, the team at ACMchoose a decorative concrete overlay mix from SureCrete, called SureTex. This product is designed to create the strongest bond to the concrete pool deck surface and create a classic knockdown or cool deck look. It’s mix design is single component, “just add water”, and therefore is Zero VOC and considered a Green or environmentally friendly concrete overlay.

After mixing SureTex with a pre-measured color pack and the right amount of water, they began the base coat on all 14,000 sq ft. They were able to cover the square footage with ease using a stand up squeegee. This was probably a wise choice of tool, as it does not require the applicator to bend over and be on their knees for  such a large project.

Once the base coat was dry on the concrete pool deck surface, they mixed up some additional SureTex with color, but this time sprayed it our of a hopper gun hooked up to an air compressor. This technique delivers a splatter affect on the surface, creating the beginning stage of the classic knockdown look. As part of the team is mixing and spraying the SureTex onto the surface the other half are using the stand up squeegee to flatten or knockdown the splatter texture to create the gorgeous new decorative concrete look.

After letting the material dry overnight, they then used a pigmented sealer to waterproof and ensure a consistent color across the entire concrete pool deck surface. As recommended by the manufacturer, they applied 2 coats of sealer for optimal performance and water and stain repellance to complete the project.